Yay For Another Travel Day!

  We were informed by Mom&Dad last night that we would be taking a plane to Cancún instead of an 18 hour bus ride. So, instead of having to wake up early to go to the bus terminal, we got to sleep in. Check out was at 1:00 so we took our time getting packed up, playing small games on our devices, and Meg and I took a trip to Starbucks- and, just because Mom&Dad weren't there to tell me differently, I ordered a cheesecake for breakfast. It was great. When we came back it was time to leave Sheraton's nice hotel room and go out for lunch. By that time my stomach was bothering me but not enough to not go out. At the restaurant we chose, I didn't order anything but a drink. Meghan said it was probably the cheesecake that I chose to eat for breakfast, but I didn't want to admit out loud that she was right. 

 After their food was almost fully digested, we grabbed our bags and headed to the subway station.

It was a fair amount of blocks and by the end of it I was starting to wish I hadn't eaten that cheesecake. I was super pumped because I was imagining that no one would be on the subway to the airport because no one had been on it before, but I was wrong. It was fully packed with people so we held our bags tightly to our chests and were aware of space for the rest of the trip. By the time we were at the airport my shoulders were killing me, and I complained to Meghan that my bag was definitely the heaviest luggage out of our group. But when we found out that checking our bags would be free for our entire plane to Cancún, we quickly found out whose bag was really the heaviest. 

 Meghan won with her baggage weighing 11.82 kilograms, with mine being second to last at 9.82, with the exception of Dad who just packs  a toothbrush and sunscreen, if nothing at all. 

 We wandered to find our gate where the plane would off at 4:30. At 3:20, we had plenty of time, so we bought some snacks for the plane, and since I didn't eat any lunch, I was starting to get hungry, so I got some potato chips and a churro, which is the first time I've had one of those since our trip to South America. 

 The plane was giant, which makes sense considering the amount of people that were waiting in line to board. 

 The flight was short, only 2 hours, but we waited on the runway for about 30 minutes before we were allowed to get off the plane.

Sadly, Meghan wasn't feeling so great once we arrived so we tried to get to our hotel quickly.

 It was called hotel Calypso, and nice, small room that we would stay for one night. Mom&Dad and I went down to dinner while Meghan stayed in the room and tried to sleep. The food was excellent, it was actually the first meal that I finished my entire plate, plus the rice and beans plus the one chip. When we got back to the room Meghan was watching the second to last Twilight, so we knew she was feeling somewhat better. I got to sit and watch the end of it, which was pretty great, because I had a mineral water to drink while watching. 

 Meghan was pretty pumped about the next movie that was coming on, "White Chicks" but Dad said it was too late, and time to go to bed. 

Ruinas

Starbucks has become part of our morning routine and it sure helps when we have to wake up early to get on a van. Not unlike New York, Starbucks are at least a stones throw away, where ever you are. Our driver came to get us at the hotel and we waited in the plaza for about 15 Mexican minutes for the other members of our tour. The 15 Mexican minutes translated to about an hour. Our first stop was at a gift shop outside of the ruins. A lady named Jenny explained to us how paper, textiles, juice, and liquor were all made from the Agave plant. The tip of the plant was a needle and when the outer layers were peeled back, there was thread attached to it. She died the thread using rose petals, calcium and the flower that goes into Manzanilla tea. The calcium turned the red to a purplish color and the yellow to a green. I wish that was the kind of science they taught us at school! We walked around the gift shop for a bit before leaving to go to the ruins. The most popular parts of the ruins were the Sun and Moon temples. Our guide said that the temple of the moon used to be covered with white stucco and the temple of the sun was made of all red stones. We climbed halfway up the temple of the moon and had a pretty view of all the smaller pyramids. We went through one of the houses and the guide told us that in the courtyard of every house there was about an inch of water that covered the ground so it reflected the moon and the stars at night. 

Lastly, we climbed the temple of the sun where we could go all the way to the top. I'm confused as to why on earth such short people would build temples with stairs that were as tall as their knees. It was rough getting all the way up there but the view from the top was stunning. You could see the line of small pyramids with the temple of the moon at the end. Tenochtitlan was in a valley so we could also see all the hills around it. Once we descended, we had some extra time so we looked for a tree with some shade. Helen and I played cards until it was time to go. We got back on the bus and it took us back to the hotel. From there we went to eat a late lunch at a steakhouse. Dad and I both got meat that was served on iron skillets still cooking it while we were eating. After lunch we went to the pool at the hotel until the sky looked a little sketchy and we got out. The rest of the day was spent hanging around the room. Last but not least, we ordered room service for desert and the tray that he rolled in served as a perfect card table.

Mexico City!

This morning we tried to take our 9kg of laundry to the lavandaria, but after walking the 6 blocks there, it was closed.  We gave up and walked back to the hotel.  Stopping for a coffee and some sweet treats from one of the many Starbucks we passed on our way (tell me where we are again?)

We bought passes for the Touribus, an open topped double decker bus that runs several circuits around the city. We rode into the historic district from our hotel in the business district.  We passed a few abandoned buildings that were victims of the 8.5 earthquake that occurred here in 1985.  Most of the windows were intact but there were large cracks in the foundations and running top to bottom of the 4 story buildings.

We got off at the Alameda, a central massive square with large trees and grassy areas and paths wandering in the middle of the city. We walked past the Bellas Artes building.  Gorgeous exterior with lines coming out of both sides with hundreds of people waiting to get in.

We walked to the Zocalo, which was covered by enormous white tents, and walked through the Cathedral. Large arched ceilings with little to no paint.  There was a mass taking place as we came in, we attended IMO for a Wednesday morning @9:30.  

The church is well maintained in the areas used frequently but lacks the luster of other cathedrals of that size.  There was a net across the base of the bell tower cupola to catch pieces of the ceiling as they fell.  It was a lovely church in need of some restoration. They do not charge people to tour it, but I wonder if they would make enough to restore the gold painted on the walls and repair the ceiling.

We walked on to the Templo Mayor.  The temple was discovered by electrical workers trying to install cables underground in 1963.  Until this discovery, it was believed that the Cathedral was built over the entire site of the original temple.  There was not much to see other than the base of their buildings - but the try fascination for me was that they built these temples and buildings in a land that was mostly swamp because their leader believed that this was the chosen spot when he saw an eagle perched on a cactus holding a snake.

To build their massive buildings, they had to hammer long pieces if wood into the mud and build/weave a floor on top of them.  It reminded me a little of the Uros on Lake Titicaca.

We ate lunch on the 4th floor overlooking the Zocalo, taking in our first Plata del Dia of the trip. It's a 3 (sometimes 4) course meal for a fixed price.  It's plenty of food and super inexpensive versus ordering off the menu.

After lunch we ran to the bus.  We had to stop it from driving off without us, but we made it.  The seats up top were hot, hot, hot but we toughed it out and rode to the Archeology Museo in Chapultepec Park.

The museum is extremely well done and the ground floor features all of the historic culture and their remains (including models of some of the buildings left behind) and the second floor hosts a glimpse of the culture in the same areas today.  I enjoyed one of the models so much, I'm hoping to change our flexible itinerary to take in the actual site.

The girls were tired of site seeing so we bought them a burrito and sodas and left them in the hotel room while we went to catch the South loop.  We bought some snacks and walked to the bus stop to find out the bus was stuck in traffic and when the 9:00 closing time came, Touribus pulls in to whatever the closest stop is and drops everyone off.  

Instead, we decided to walk through the Condesa neighborhood.  Cute area with large trees in the center walkways and bars and restaurants scattered around.  We sat at an outdoor table and enjoyed our time together and the quiet of the time without the girls. :)

Fantastic Day One!

Leaving Oaxaca

Today we are taking the bus to Mexico City. I have some reservations about leaving partially because I like the feel of this town but also my concerns for safety in Mexico City.  We have read quite a few travel warnings which make me a little nervous.

Oaxaca was full of tourists, mostly national tourists, for the Guelaguetza festival of folk dancing. We fit in a little more with the masses doing tourist things, buying crafts, hats and taking a lot of photos.

We hit Cafe Alex, our first morning breakfast spot, then caught a cab to the bus terminal.  The 6.5 hour  drive was through high mountainous desert full of various cactu plants then falling into a wide agricultural valley before entering the city. Bus movies were Grown Ups 2, War Horse and American Hustle with no subtitles for the gringos.

The MC bus terminal is huge but broken down into smaller terminals so we didn't feel overwhelmed and made it easily to the metro station below. I was on full alert but then began to calm down as it was clear that everyone was just doing their thing and even though we were clearly tourists, we we not out of place. Our stop popped us out in the Rosa Zone financial district were we walked  couple of blocks to our hotel with bags on backs during rush hour with most folks in business attire getting off work. Now I felt a little out of place but totally safe. Not sure anymore what I had worried about or what I had expected. This was a metropolitan city like many others, with great public spaces. 2 days to explore further.

Monte Alban

After groggily going to the smaller bus station to buy our tickets to go see Monte Alban, one of the top 5 best ruins in Mexico, we went to a café right around the corner. We were expecting the food to be made quickly, and then we would eat the food quickly and go back to the terminal before our bus left at 9:30. 

 However, as time ticked away, we chatted and waiting for our food to come. Meghan and I both ordered smoothies, not questioning how large they were. At 9:20, when our food finally came, we noted that we couldn't eat in 10 minutes plus walking back to the station. 

 So we called and switched our tickets to the 10:30 time. The only downside of going an hour later was that it would be hot most of the time we were there. But I assumed it would be fine. 

 The smoothies that we ordered were too big for a giant, let alone a human. It was good, but I felt bad about wasting almost half of it, by dumping it down the sink later on that day. 

 We took our time leisurely walking back to the hotel and chilling there until it was time for us to head back over to the bus terminal. 

 The ride was about 30 minutes, not too bad because Meg and I played cards and listened to the girls across from us speak in Italian. When we arrived, we paid our fee and debated (actually only Mom&Dad debated, my opinion didn't matter whatsoever) on whether or not we wanted a tour guide. When we (they) agreed on having a tour guide, a man named Julio volunteered. Thankfully he spoke English so I didn't have to spend the next hour and a half trying to piece together what he was saying. 

 First, he gave us an overall explanation of what we were going to see and find out today about Monte Alban, a former city which was first inhabited by Zapotecs around 500 B.C. They flattened the tops of mountains and there they built temples to honor their gods. There were also houses for the upper class on the slopes of the mountains and houses for the lower class down in the valley. 

 We walked slowly up the hill, stopping to listen to stories about important trees that had been there for centuries. One of the places we went to first was the Gran Plaza, which was was where all the markets were held, where upper class people bought things and lower class mostly just watched. There were many temples around the plaza, most of which were blocked off for protection to the stones.

 One of the coolest things Julio spoke about was a room that only got direct sunlight twice a year. There is a small temple over the room, leaving one hole near the top where the sun can shine through. 

 After Julio finished the tour we wandered up the stairs to see two separate temples on either side of the plaza. When we saw almost every ruin and took pictures of it, we headed down to the museum and walked around looking at all of the artifacts that the archeologists had dug up and preserved, such as a skeleton that had been placed in a tomb, like Julio explained.

 Feeling like we were finished and had seen everything we needed to see at Monte Alban, we hopped on the 2:00 bus back to Oaxaca. All of the seats were full, so Mom&I slid over to make room for a sweet girl who Mom tried to talk to some of the ride home. 

 We walked for a little bit and stopped at a locals restaurant. Mir was a four course meal, two soups, a main course, plus a small rice pudding in a plastic cup with a very small spoon. It was delicious, I would definitely eat there again. 

 After stopping by the hotel for a nap, we walked downtown through a craft market, which consisted of at least 30 very small stores, where not one store didn't have another store that was selling the exact same thing. Most of them were selling pottery, small colorful animals, clothes or shoes. 

 We all purchased an item, and feeling satisfied we went to a café where Meghan and I split some quesadillas. 

 Dad had heard that fireworks were going to go off around 8:40, so we walked around to try to find some rooftop restaurants where we would have a great view. Apparently all the locals had had this idea way before us so we ended up watching them standing in the plaza. They were still beautiful, and more far away then I've experienced before so they were much less loud then I expected. 

 After they ended we walked back to the hotel and Dad went off to find some food since the rest of us weren't hungry. I took a shower which took forever since out of the 30 streams of water, 7 of them actually worked. 

 After taking at least 10 minutes trying to get shampoo out of my hair, I gave up on conditioner and went to bed. 

Small town visits

After eating pastries for breakfast, caught a cab to the ADO bus station to buy tickets to la Ciudad de Mexico. Then we set out to try and catch a colectivo: a small bus that would take us to Tlacolula, the weaving town. Of course nothing is that easy and we walked for a while before getting lost and having to ask for directions. We caught the bus and rode out of the city. The view out the window looked a bit like the outskirts of Cusco, lots of green and occasional small houses. Tlacolula seemed to not have many people until we got into the market and there was barely any breathing room. People were selling all sorts of things from live chickens and turkeys to clothes. We walked around the markets for a while just taking everything in. We ate lunch at a restaurant because although the market food smelled amazing, it probably wouldn't have gone over so well. After wandering for a bit longer we caught a taxi to Teotitlan. Once in Teotitlan we walked around looking at all the tapestries that many vendors were selling. We walked up to the main square where a funeral was coming out of the church led by trumpets and trombones. The church was filled with flowers from the funeral and it was absolutely beautiful. I forgot how much patience and energy go into every single detail of churches in Latin America and it's breathtaking.

We went to a restaurant to order drinks and played cards for a bit before getting on another bus to go see the biggest tree in the world. I don't know what I was expecting exactly, but the tree was enormous. There was a fence around it so we couldn't go up and touch it but it was still impressive to see. We ate some ice cream in the park and I got tamarind and chile. Mexicans don't mess around with their chile, by the time I finished my ice cream, my mouth was burning. We caught a taxi back into Oaxaca and ate dinner on the plaza watching the Gold Cup final on TV. The restaurant/bar was super crowded and there were people standing on the street so they could watch. Mexico won 3-1 and everyone was thrilled.

Oaxaca Market

The overnight bus was not as comfy as we had hoped and we arrived sore and tired this morning. Luckily we were able to check in to our hotel very early and after breakfast caught up on some sleep before exploring Oaxaca. First stop, the Benito Juarez mercado. Always my favorite spots in town this one did not disappoint with all of the sights and smells, some great and others not so.

I saw the grasshopper ladies and after a sample bought a small bag of these deep fried and spiced insects... pretty tasty but I couldn't get much interest from the rest of the gang.

There is a month long celebration here called Guelaguetza and so the center of town is full of folks. We wandered through vendors to the Santo Domingo de Guzman temple for a quick peek inside and some sanctuary (isn't there a story of vendors and temples?). Afterward we got a bite to eat before the parade but by the time we finished up it was too late to find any good vantage points. It sounded like an excellent parade and we caught glimpses of some reworks on pole, spinning parks into the crowd and also some taller puppets but didn't stick around too long.

Final Day on the Pacific

     Got up this morning and headed back to El Cafecito for breakfast with Mike, letting the girls sleep in a bit.  The sky was a bit overcast which put a slight damper on the heat of the sun.  We bought the girls some pastries and smoothies and caught a cab back to the hotel to pack up.
     After laying around in the room and gathering our belongings back up, we checked out of the hotel and caught a cab to the bus station where we left our bags for the day, then took another cab out to Playa Zicatela (home to the enormous surfing waves).
   We walked a little bit, but the sky has cleared and the sun was blistering hot so we ducked into a beachfront restaurant and sat at a shaded table close to the roar of the waves.  Meghan volunteers to go buy cards and we sit there for an hour or so watching the waves and playing cards - at the end of the games we played, Helen counts the cards and comes up with 40.  It's then we realize that there are no 8's or 9's and while we were playing Speed and Crazy 8, not one of us noticed there were no 8's.
     We wandered up the street after our last card game looking for a place to eat and settled in a restaurant for lunch across the street from the beach, but still in range of the sound of pounding waves.

     After lunch, we moved basically across the street to Juquilita, a beachfront bar with several well shaded hammocks, where we whiled away the remaining hours swinging peacefully sipping our drinks and reading our books.  Once in a while, I would glance up in time to see a massive wave thunder in and would rush to the edge and sit and wait for another one.

  At around 6:00, we crawled out of our hammocks, walked around a bit and headed to the bus station for our overnight bus to Oaxaca.
     On the bus we were treated to Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles in espanol - until the lights went out and we drifted off to a fitful sleep.

The People's Beach

Debby and I got up early and took a cab back to the bus station where we were told the night before that the overnight bus to Oaxaca was full and our options were to stay another day or take a day bus. Not ble to decide at that moment we slept on it and got to the station in time to buy the last 4 seats on the overnight bus tomorrow. Another day in paradise.....

After two days at Playa Carrizalillo we decided to hit some new sand at Playa Manzanillo, known for snorkeling. This beach is another small harbor lined with restaurants hiding under the palms and we chose some chairs and umbrellas that were well shaded since we were on our 3rd day in the sun.  By purchasing drinks and food, the loungers are free and we had excellent front row seats for the day.  

By noon the beach was packed to the point of walking through a crowd to get into the water and it was necessary to wade into deeper waters to have some room.

This is not our favorite scene but it was enjoyable to see something different. There was a constant stream of vendors making their way through the crowds selling everything from fruit to trinkets to a song if you wanted it. Very reminiscent of beaches in parts of Equador and Chile. This was also a locals beach with very few gringos like us.  Boat captains were taking groups out and back all day to see dolphins and turtles or to ride on the back of an inflatable tow-behind. We took no part, just layer back and watched it all. 

Last day on the Pacific coast until some unplanned future trip!

Wednesday

     Waking up in bed is one thing. But waking up to an ocean and a pool outside your window is another.
     We started off the day with a wonderful breakfast at a crowded restaurant: El Cafecito. As hungry as I felt when we got there I was still not able to finish my plate of pancakes and fruit, and started to wish that Meghan and I had shared a plate instead of getting two separate ones. With our stomachs full and minds set on burning calories we sweated through the 10 yard walk (plus stairs) to the same beach as yesterday. After watching Meghan and Dad successfully stand up on the board while surfing yesterday, I was starting to regret turning down the offer to try it myself.
      So with a plan in mind to follow in their footsteps, after a limonata mineral- Fizzy Lemonade, I wanted to have my first surfing lesson, whether I was ready or not. Ray, the English speaking surf teacher that was with Meghan and Dad yesterday, taught me the 3 steps of how to get up while riding a wave. I was great at doing the steps on the sand, but while in the water, flipping over was what was happening 80% of the time. However I did manage to stand up twice, my feet on the board for only a millisecond but at least it was progress. At the end it was definitely a success, although more than half the time I was hanging off the right side of the board. Oh well. It was still a success.
   

 Out of the three books I brought, I finished the first one while sitting in front of the ocean, lemonade in my hand with the breeze drifting by. Meghan, next to me whispered, "Helen, we are literally in paradise." It wasn't really possible to disagree.
      We headed back to the hotel around 4 and chilled by the pool, reading and playing cards in the shade. Instead of being on a time based schedule, we took our time getting ready for dinner. We caught a cab around 7, and were taken to a separate beach where the waves were so strong and tall that only professional surfers could ride the waves. We sat at a restaurant called Los Tios (The Uncles) and ate dinner while watching the surfers swiftly zigzag through the water like they owned it; which they probably did.
     Instead of walking along the shoreline a little ways, we walked down the streets where the stores were open along with the sidewalks marked with little trinkets such as necklaces, dream catchers, or paintings. We walked to the end of the block where we were picked up by a taxi that took us to the bus station. While Mom&Dad waited in line to pay for tickets, I scurried off to the bathroom, and was in such a hurry that I didn't notice that we had to pay for toilet paper. Luckily, Meghan had my back and passed me some under the stall door, to which I felt rather stupid, and told myself I would pay attention next time.
     We found out that the overnight bus that we wanted to take was sold out, so we debated whether or not to take the 6 hour one, or spend an extra night in Puerto Escondido and leave for the trip to Oaxaca the next day.
     By the time our decision was made, I was tired and ready to go to bed. When we got back to our hotel, I think all of us labeled the day as a triumph and basically fell into bed. 

Surfs Up!

We woke up this morning to the blues outside our window, the sky, the ocean, and of course the pool. After eating breakfast at the hotel we got ready to go down to the Rinconada which is the strip of restaurants closest to our hotel. Once there, we bought water and turned to go down to the beach. We walked on a pedestrian path for a bit before reaching the stairs. After the first flight, we came around a corner to see the whole cove below us. The water further out was deep blue towards the beach it was light green. When I got down, I found dad talking to multiple surf instructors who all said it was something we just had to do. We decided to think on it -we being Dad and I, both mom and Helen were uninterested- and made our way to a set of chairs where we ordered drinks and went for a swim. After lounging around for a bit, it was time. Our instructor Ray, showed us the steps in the sand before we got in the water. They were pretty easy to do there, but once in the water it was evident that wasn't the case anymore. Dad had been surfing before and he easily stood up before falling back down into the waves. I wasn't as coordinated. It took me a while to get comfortable on the board until they brought me a new one and I had to start over again. Once I stood up the first time, I did it 3 more times before getting out to have lunch. We ate tacos at the restaurant/bar that we were sitting at and then hung out for a bit more before going back to the hotel. At the hotel we swam in the pool for a bit before leaving to eat dinner at 6. A cab took us to the downtown of Puerto Escondido and dropped us off at our restaurant. We ate looking out at the bay where all the fishing ships were. Mom and Dad both got fish, Helen got spaghetti and I got octopus. It was so good. When we left the restaurant, the street was filled with people and venders. It was kind of like a street fair but smaller. We caught a cab back to our hotel to change into swimsuits before leaving at 8:30 to go on a tour of a bioluminescent lagoon. We drove out and got on a boat with a couple other people and our guide. The stars were incredible, we could even see the milky way. Once far from the lights, the water started to light up when it was moved. When you put your hand in the water and splashed, the water around your hand would flow.  Many people went swimming, including Helen, but I stayed on the boat to watch the stars. I think I was asleep even before we got back to the hotel. We all came in, changed and immediately went to bed. Our first full day in Mexico was definitely a success.

Viva Mexico!

      We had a full day of travel.  Loving parents dropped us off at MARTA to begin our journey @8:30.  ATL to MEX.  Changed terminals, waited in a crazy long line to check in to our budget Mexican airline [an early reminder of life in Peru].  I had forgotten how spoiled we in the U.S. are when it comes waiting in lines. Somewhat lost in Terminal 1 - it was confusing that the airline just tells you the terminal to hang out in until they post the gate, the plane is assigned to just minutes before boarding...

     We arrive to a partially sunny, humid paradise. :)